What's New! By Lorin Gaudin
There's a lot "new" in our political lives, but there's also a lot "new" in our culinary lives. Despite the continuing financial crunch, more restaurants appear on the landscape. What's interesting about these openings is the style of place that predominates: casual eateries. Within the last month (or so), we've added a sandwich shop, a cafe and a bbq joint to the mix. It's still early days for these places, so expect some things to shift and re-shape as they settle in and serve up...
Milk Bar (3445 Prytania Street; New Orleans; 891-9361) - Tucked inside the former Cafe Banquette, across from Touro Hospital, Milk Bar is simply a sandwich shop with a broad list of Gourmet Sandwiches, Hot Po-Boys, Salads, shakes, smoothies and coffee drinks. A gooey, flavor-packed and decadent "Christmas in July" sandwich combines roast turkey, brie, tomato, mozzarella and cranberry sauce piled onto a warm ciabatta loaf (from La Boulangerie). The play of flavors is deliciously intriguing - rich, creamy, sweet and tangy. Many of the sandwiches on the "Gourmet" list have allure with contrasting and complimentary textures and tastes; it's a tough choice. Bring friends to share "Wolf Me Down" (Lamb, tomato, red onion, spinach, mozzarella and hummus) or "Occidental Oriental" (Marinated chicken, fresh red pepper, cucumber, carrot, bean sprouts, mozzarella and peanut satay sauce). There are also simple sandwiches too and plenty of vegetarian and healthy selections, but if you want to try something special, this is the place. The shakes and coffee drinks are also well done and should you find yourself in the area early in the morning, there is a smart breakfast with items topping out at $3.50.
Chef Dave Gotter moved his catering digs to a bigger space and he added a cafe - Gott Gourmet Cafe (3100 Magazine Street; New Orleans; 373-6579; www.gottgourmetcafe.com). Housed in the corner spot recently held by "Nile Cafe," the menu here is all casual comfort with giant bowls of soup or a stellar "Leaded Gumbo" jammed with chicken, big shrimp, crab, sausage, and okra. A scoop of creamy potato salad is plunked in the middle of the works, no rice, making for a fine meal. Fancy sandwiches called "Groovy Gourmet," wraps, sandwiches, and salads, round out the menu. The St. Paddy's Day Massacre pairs braised and pulled corned beef, Gruyere, Horseradish Cheddar, French Fries, Ancho-Honey Slaw, 1000 Island, and Creole Mustard on Pumpernickel. A bit messy and cutting a wide swath of taste confusion, this sandwich is very interesting, but stands second to the brilliant "Cochon de Lait Cuban Panini" that's loaded with pulled pork, Dr. Pepper-Honey Baked Ham, pickles, cheese, slaw, homey mustard and chili mayo; and then there's the "Original Chicago Style Hot Dog," a skinless Vienna all-beef dog on a poppyseed bun and traditional condiments - yellow mustard, bright green sweet relish, sport peppers, pickle spear, tomato, onion and celery salt. Of the salads, raves come for the aromatic Curry Chicken, all crunch and chew, spice and silk either piled on Ranch dressing-tossed greens, or scooped into a buttery jumbo croissant. Holy Yum.
The name may be off-putting, but it's the real-deal at Squeal Bar-B-Q (8400 Oak Street; New Orleans; 302-7370), Uptown's newest barbecue joint, offering lunch, dinner and late night dining. There is a distinct smoke scent on the air (coming from the two smokers out back), a good (and expected) sign for this bbq place launched this week in the building that was once Asian Cajun, Margaux, Zachary's, Constantine's, Lee Barnes' Cooking School, etc., Squeal's small opening menu includes the standards - ribs, chicken, brisket and pulled pork; sides of greens, mac-n-cheese, coleslaw, baked beans and an interpretive corn maque choux that tastes a lot like "Mexi-corn." There are meaty sandwiches served with beans and slaw and coming soon with the menu expansion, starters to include Pork Pies, Squeal Nachos, and more. The thin slab of cornbread, buttered and grilled, sitting atop gorgeous slow-cooked, fresh greens and crowned with a knob of honey-butter, rocked my world. And there aren't enough words to praise a half-pound burger blend of ground beef and Vaucresson hot sausage called The Big Squeal. The ribs are charred on the outside, gently sauced and nicely smoky, with the meat done right, not falling off the bone and requiring a bit of tooth. Brisket also bears a soft smokiness and comes plated sauced. There's loads of bbq potential here.

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