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Written by Kendall Gensler Thursday, 14 May 2009 14:34

Get the Delicious Dish

Fishing season is open in South Louisiana – both in the water and in the kitchen. I thought it interesting to take a look at 8 great fish dishes-- ranging from the classic and contemporary- that didn’t get away and seem to be here to stay:

Blackened
Blackened fish is a preparation that is often associated with traditional Cajun cuisine--but, is in fact a modern invention of chef Paul Prudhomme. It consists of fillets of fish--most commonly redfish-dredged in melted butter, then a mixture of herbs and spices and cooked in an extremely hot cast iron skillet. When cooked properly, it has a brownish-black spice coating (hence the name) and a moist interior. The dry dredging mixture usually contains some combination of thyme, oregano, cayenne pepper, white and black pepper, garlic, onion and salt.
(recipe to follow)

Court-Bouillon
This Louisiana classic is derived from the traditional court-bouillon that has been known to generations of cooks throughout France as flavored stock for poaching seafood and meat Court bouillon literally means “short boil.” New Orleanians make this French poaching method all the their own “coo-bee-yawn.” The Creole cooks of New Orleans, who took their cues from African and Caribbean traditions, created a court-bouillon of firm-fleshed fish such as redfish or catfish, cooked in a tomato-laced, thickened stock with aromatic herbs and spices.

“En Papillote”
Pompano en Papillote is a dish created by Jules Alciatore at Antoine's Restaurant in New Orleans for a banquet honoring the Brazilian balloonist Alberto Santos-Dumont. The dish was based in turn on a dish that Jules' father Antoine Alciatore had created--Pompano Montgolfier--honoring the brothers who had created the first balloons. A fillet of pompano is baked in a sealed parchment paper envelope with a white sauce of wine, shrimp, and crabmeat. With a bit of luck the steam will puff up the parchment a bit, suggesting a hot air balloon.

Fried
Fish is fried in many parts of the world and is an important dish in many cuisines. South Louisiana is no exception. Fish fries are popular, featuring the “catch of the day” following a bountiful fishing trip or on Fridays during Lent. Typically, the fish is first dredged in seasoned flour or cornmeal before crisping up with a dip in hot oil. Fried fish also shows up on french bread po-boys; as well as, under eggs and hollandaise on the brunch table. The fried catfish at Middendorf’s in Pass Manchac deserves a mention for both the thick and thin varieties.

Lyonnaise
Late Chef Jamie Shannon created Lyonnaise Fish as a special at Commander’s Palace and the dish simply took off. Subsequently, the dish has become a new classic and remains a staple on the core menu at Commander’s. But, it should not be a surprise, considering how moist the fish turns out and New Orleans’ love affair with shoestring potatoes. The trick to the successful dish is the potatoes. The heat from the water in the potatoes steams the fish, while it forms a crisp crust creating a dramatic texture contrast.
(recipe to follow)

Meuniere Amandine
Meuniere, French for “miller’s wife,”refers to a style of cooking whereby a food, often fish is simply sauteed. The final product is served with beurre meuniere, a brown butter flavored with lemon. This quintessential Creole dish blends two classic French presentations--meuniere and amandine-- with fine speckled trout from the waters of the Gulf of Mexico. This fish dish is the most popular entree at Galatoire’s. The contrast of the soft, succulent texture of the fish, the light tartness of the lemon-butter sauce, and the sweet crunch of toasted almonds is irresitible.
(recipe to follow)

“On the Half Shell”
Fish on the half shell has all of the great flavors of roasted whole fish, but is easier to eat. The fish is filleted, leaving the skin and scales intact, then seasoned and cooked skin-side down on a grill until the fish flakes easily. The end result is moist and delicious due to the fish cooking in its’ natural juices, which increases succulence and flavor. Redfish is a popular choice for this cooking method-- but, also snapper, drum, sheephead or any other fish with thick enough scales to hold up to the grill. This preparation is the perfect choice for the health conscious.
(recipe to follow)

Pecan-Crusted
As evidenced by the popularity of Poisson Amandine in New Orleans-- it made absolute culinary sense to utilize the locally prolific pecan in fish preparation. Coating fish in flour or a similar dry ingredient adds a pleasant crispness when pan sauteed in butter. To crust the fish with pecans, the nuts are whirled in a food processor with an equal amount of flour or bread crumbs-creating a meal in which the fish will be dredged. The pecan flour creates a sweet, earthy and crunchy crust that complements the moist meat of the interior fish.

To read more about the “culinary current” and other delicious dishes in New Orleans, log onto culinaryconcierge.com

Recipes:

Blackened Redfish with Maître d’Hôtel Butter
Adapted from Ralph Brennan’s Seafood Cookbook
For 4 generous servings

Blackening fish is an easy method of cooking them in a seasoned skillet to produce a dark-brown exterior and a wonderfully moist interior. Although the blackened fish may look slightly burned, if cooked properly it will taste heavenly.

While the use of a cast-iron skillet is preferred, a sauté pan also can be used with good results.

Notes: Recommended alternate species: Catfish, cod, grouper, halibut, salmon, tilapia, tuna fish

Only two fillets are cooked at once to allow sufficient space for even cooking.

Advance steps
Prepare the recipes for:
• Creole seasoning
• Maître d’hôtel butter

Special equipment
• A rimmed baking sheet
• A seasoned 12-inch cast-iron skillet*
• A broad, large and sturdy spatula

*A heavy-gauge, 12-inch sauté pan which does not require seasoning can be substituted for the cast-iron skillet with good results. If the cast-iron skillet is new, it must be seasoned to keep the fish from sticking to the pan during cooking.

Blackened Fish:
1/2 cup good-quality dry white wine
2     tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
4     8-ounce redfish fillets
2     tablespoons Creole seasoning, divided

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Combine the wine and melted butter. Place the mixture in the rimmed baking sheet and set it aside.
3. Place an empty seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.
4. Meanwhile, evenly distribute the 2 tablespoons of Creole seasoning mix on both sides of the four fillets, rubbing 1/2 tablespoon onto each fillet.
5. After the skillet has been on the burner for three or four minutes, it should be hot and just starting to smoke. Place two of the fillets in the skillet and cook until each is dark golden on both sides but slightly undercooked, about 11/2 minutes per side. (The cooking time will depend on the thickness of the fish.)
6. Transfer the cooked fillets to the rimmed baking sheet with a broad, large and sturdy spatula and set them aside. Cook the remaining two fillets as you did the first two, and transfer them to the baking sheet as well.
7. Place the pan with the four fillets, uncovered, in the oven and bake until they are just cooked through, about five minutes. To test for doneness, insert the tip of a thin-bladed knife into the thickest part of the fillet for approximately 10 seconds. Remove the knife and lay the tip of the blade flat against the inside of your wrist. If the tip feels hot against your skin, the fish is done.

Serving Suggestion: Serve the fish immediately, topped with rounds of maître d’hôtel butter, using 1 to 2 tablespoons of butter for each serving.

Creole Seasoning
For a scant 1 cup

1/2 cup sweet paprika
1/4 cup kosher salt
1   tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1   teaspoon onion powder
1   teaspoon garlic powder
1   teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
1   teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1   teaspoon dried oregano leaves

Thoroughly combine all the ingredients in a small mixing bowl and place the mixture in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to three months.

Lyonnaise Fish - Chef Tory McPhail - Commander’s Palace

4 large russet potatoes
6 5 to 6 ounce fish filets, speckled trout, snapper, catfish, flounder
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup flour
2/3 cup milk
2 medium eggs
1/4 cup vegetable oil

For the artichokes:
4 globe artichokes
1 lemon, halved
2 heads garlic, peeled and halved crosswise
1 1/2 cups white wine
1/2 cup champagne vinegar
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
10 black peppercorns
2 cups water

For the vinaigrette:
1 egg
1 lime, juiced
1 oz. cachaça
Salt, white pepper and sugar to taste
1 cup oil

For the salad:
1/2 cup local red and yellow teardrop tomatoes, sliced in half
2 bunches arugula, rinsed, stems removed
Micro sprouts, for garnish

To prepare the fish:
Peel potatoes and cut into a fine shoe string size using a mandoline. They should be about 2 inches long by 1/8 inch wide and 1/16 inch thick. Place in bowl of cold water. Rinse until water runs clear.

Check fish to be free of bones and trim if necessary. Fish is best if it is an even thickness. Season fish and dust in seasoned flour, shake away any excess flour. Mix milk and eggs together and season. Place fish in egg wash.

Remove and drain potatoes. Use a clean dishtowel and squeeze any excess water out of potatoes. Place a thin layer of potatoes on work surface; enough to coat one side of the fish. Place fish on top of potatoes and coat topside of fish. Form potatoes around fish with hands. Repeat with remaining fish.

In a large skillet over high heat, add half the oil and heat for about 2 to 3 minutes or just starting to smoke. Using a spatula, pick up fish and gently place in pan. Add two more pieces and reduce heat to medium high. Fish might stick at first, but don’t move it. As the potatoes cook, the starch will turn to sugar and the fish will come free from the pan. Using your spatula, form fish by pushing any loose potatoes up against the fish, breaking away any excess potatoes. If potato starts to burn, turn heat down to medium. Cook for about 5 to 6 minutes or until crust is golden and crisp. Gently flip. Shape fish again with spatula and break away any loose strings. Cook 4 to 5 minutes until golden and crisp. Flip again and re-crisp opposite side about 30 seconds. Remove and season. Place on a rack to keep warm. Wipe pan with a paper towel and repeat with remaining fish.

For the salad:
Slice the top 1/3 off each artichoke. Remove outer leaves and rub the artichokes with lemon. Heat the water in a saucepot. Add the wine and vinegar and bring to a low boil for 10 minutes, or until it is reduced by half. Add the lemon, garlic, herbs, peppercorns, stock and water. Add the artichokes, bring them to a boil, and simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Remove the artichokes and cool. Remove the cooked artichokes’ leaves, scoop out the chokes, and slice each heart into 8 pieces. Set aside.
Place egg, cachaça, and lime in blender and slowly emulsify in the oil till you achieve the right consistency. Add salt, pepper and sugar to taste. Toss the arugula, cherry tomatoes and artichoke hearts with the vinaigrette. Divide among 6 plates. Place the fish on the salad. Garnish the top of the fish with more cherry tomatoes and micro sprouts.

Trout Meuniére Amandine Chef Brian Landry – Galatoire’s

2 c   sliced almonds
2      large eggs
1 pt whole milk
To taste    salt & freshly ground pepper
6      Speckled trout fillets, cleaned and boned
2 c   All-purpose flour
1     gallon vegetable oil
1     recipe Meuniére Butter
3     medium lemons cut in wedges

Method: Preheat oven to 300ºF. Place the almonds in a pan and toast them in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, opening the oven to stir them every 5 minutes while they cook. When they become a light golden brown, remove from the oven and set aside. Make a wash by whisking the eggs and the milk. Season with salt and pepper. Season the trout fillets with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Submerge the floured trout in the egg wash. Gently remove the fillets from the egg wash and allow the excess to drip off. Put the fillets back into the flour, then gently shake off the excess flour. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil to 350ºF. Test the readiness of the oil by sprinkling a pinch of flour over it. The flour will brown instantly when the oil has reached the correct temperature. Add the trout and fry for 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the fish when the crust is golden brown. To serve: Top each fried trout fillet with almonds and warmed meuniére butter. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve at once.

Meuniére Butter

1 lb salted butter
1 T fresh lemon juice
1 T red wine vinegar

Method: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, whisking constantly, for 8 to 10 minutes, until the sediment in the butter turns dark brown, almost (but not quite) to the point of burning, and the liquid is a deep golden color. Remove the pan from the heat and continue to whisk slowly, adding the lemon juice and the vinegar to the browned butter. The sauce will froth until the acids have evaporated. When the frothing subsides, the sauce is complete.

Redfish on the Half Shell - Bourbon House - Chef Darin Nesbit

While this is cooked on the grill, it can be cooked on a stovetop using a heavy bottom pot, or cast iron skillet.

Serves Four

4 ea    Redfish fillet with skin & scale intact
2T         Creole seasoning
1 lb       Jumbo lump crabmeat carefully removed of shell pieces, but lumps left whole
2 T        Green onion, thinly sliced on a bias
12 oz.    Lemon beurre blanc
2           lemons, pith and skin removed
1           Shallot, minced
1 T        Vegetable oil
1 sprig   Fresh thyme
6           Black peppercorns
1           Bay leaf
1/2 C     White wine
1 T        Heavy Cream
1 C        Unsalted butter, chopped and chilled
Kosher salt and white pepper to taste

To cook fish: Preheat the grill to medium low. Or, add oil to a heavy bottom pot. Season the redfish with Creole seasoning. Place skin side down on the grill and cover loosely with foil and grill for 5-10 minutes until the fish flakes easily.

For sauce: In a two quart saucepan, add lemons, 1 T butter, shallot, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, and white wine and reduce until almost dry. Add heavy cream and reduce for 1 more minute, or until syrupy. Over medium heat, whisk in the cold butter a little at a time, stirring to incorporate after each addition. Strain, and season with salt and white pepper to taste, and keep warm.

To serve: Add crabmeat and green onion to lemon butter and warm through. Place one fillet on each plate, ladle equal portions of crab and sauce over each. Garnish with lemon crowns and flat leaf parsley.

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Kendall Gensler

Kendall Collins Gensler is a seasoned culinary professional, who received a diplome from the famous Le Cordon Bleu Cooking School and attended Johnson and Wales University for continuing culinary education. Gensler is a native New Orleanian, who has worked many facets of the culinary industry over the past twenty years-- in both the local and national markets to include the fast paced food cities of New York, San Francisco and Houston.

As an ambassador of the “culinary current”, Gensler founded Culinary Concierge Magazine in the Spring of 2000 as a platform for local food journalists to share bits of history, ingredients, recipes, people and pleasures that culminate to create the cuisine and the dining experience in an ever-evolving culinary city.

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