Put a Tiger in Your Tank


May 9, 2008

Nope, this is not a piece about Esso gasoline (remember that old advert?) nor the LSU Tigers (well, not precisely).  I haven't found a restaurant serving exotic filet of tiger and I'm not digging into a bag of Zapp's LSU Tiger Tators/Cajun Crawtator chips.  It may be coincidence, but  two new restaurants have recently come on the scene: Tiger's Creole Cuisine and Tiger Diner.  Stomach growling, I turned my sights to lunch and my eyes  on the tigers...

For quite some time, Miss Debbie, an employee at Stein's Market and Deli, has been telling me about Tiger's.  "Miss Lorin, I ate at Tiger's again.  Have you been yet?  I really like the food from there, you gotta try it." Located on Basin Street, almost to Claiborne, Tiger's Creole Cuisine is an oasis of a sort - charming, cool, walls softly painted in taupe, accents of bold orange and black - in a neighborhood that's seen a better day.  A large flat-screen television displays the menu and daily specials.  Dining with a friend meant a wider array of dishes to try, including fried chicken, fried catfish, butter beans, greens, potato salad, and black-eyed peas.  The fried food blew us away with a light, crisp, well-seasoned batter and absolutely no greasiness.  Pale gold, the thin, plank-sized catfish filet was flaky, tender and terrific.  Darker colored, the fried chicken wings crackled at every bite.  The big bowl of cottony butter beans redolent with the vinegary taste of pickle meat, disappeared fast.  Mustard greens and black-eyed peas tasted of Trappey's fame,  but the potato salad was a house-made mustardy classic with flecks of sweet relish. Daily specials, Poboys of every stripe, comforting side dishes like sticky sweet candied yams, mashed potatoes and more; salads; wings; and a pork chop basket, fills out the menu.  There's also glass after glass of really good, cooling  "Unsweet Tea."  Tiger's is open week-days from 11am to 7pm, 

Tiger Diner on Airline Drive is already infamous for it's exterior paint-job - a brash striping of bright purple and glaring gold.  It may not be the most attractive building from the outside and the interior borders on the obsessive with LSU decorations, nonetheless as diners go, this one has promise.  Incongruously, amid the wiry, bustling line-cooks, walks an older gentleman wearing a chef's jacket and tall toque.  Cute as he may be, he's a bit out of place and no one could exactly say what he does except ask everyone to call him "chef."  The staff is enthusiastic, declaring that every dish is "the best you'll ever eat."  Yes and no.  On the first visit, things were rough - chalk that up to new restaurant blues.  A return trip was more successful, but still kinked.  Our $7 order of "fabulous, incredible" onion rings were surprisingly small, tasted oddly sour but were interesting to look at with their dark brown "tiger stripes."  The burger was fine, no great shakes; same for the fried chicken sandwich.  The hit that day was the BBQ Shrimp Salad with house-made Caesar dressing.  Hot, decent-sized shrimp, cooked in buttery, herb-speckled sauce, were tossed atop a cool bed of fresh, dark salad greens, dressing and extra "bbq" sauce on the side were nice.  I watched grilled chicken breast and club sandwiches get devoured at one table while the Hamburger Steak was greedily inhaled at another nearby table.  Not a splashy, change-your-life dining experience, Tiger Diner offers solid, if sometimes predictable diner fare with occasional bright spots, specialty dishes (Purple & Gold Stuffed Artichoke) and a decided Louisiana kick.  If only they'd do something about that building's paint-job; notable for sure, but also downright atrocious.

Save room, no matter how you put the tiger in your tank, for killer snowballs found at the corner of Airline Drive and Roosevelt.  I was so excited about this place and the delectable snowballs, I forgot to snap pictures (sorry).  There's no name on the stand other than "snowballs," but trust me, the "Ultra Strawberry" will forever ruin you for any other strawberry snowball.  Owner Anthony Loiacano makes his own syrup (all the syrups) from fresh strawberry juice and pureed fruit.  Poured generously over slightly chunkier shaved ice, this is the snowball of dreams, and there's an "Ultra Peach" too. This guy's been in business a long, time, over 40 years he says, and all he sells is snowballs and vanilla soft-serve ice cream.  I'm smitten.

 

Random Acts of Dining

May 2, 2008 

This week there is no rhyme, no reason, no theme to my dining frenzy, just a mess of masticating at casual spots around the metro area, a local ice cream taste-test and of course my Jazz Fest picks.  As always there's plenty to chew on...

Eat to the Beat - At Jazz Fest the food choices are vast but the standouts were fewer and farther between.  I was initially excited about this year's newcomer, Cajun Duck Po-Boy, but alas, it did not live up to the expectations - bland, mushy and gray.  So what did work?  The Shrimp Macque Choux rocked with simple, clean flavors and also a hit was Linda Green's Yaka Mein of salty, spicy beef broth, cooked spaghetti, small bits of beef, boiled egg and a good amount of chopped green onion.  More please.  A friend called Praline Connection's Grilled Chicken Livers with Greens and Rice, Festival Foie Gras.  I agree.  Tender, gently grilled chicken livers, sharp greens, and sweet-hot pepper jelly for balance.  Heaven.  Dark chocolate covered strawberries (near the Acura stage) are a perfect finishing touch or mid-day snack and don't forget the thirst-quenching coolness of rose-mint iced tea. 

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Ice Ice Baby

April 25, 2008

The temperature is creeping up daily, several days of over 80 degrees and 100 percent humidity is only the beginning of what’s yet to come when summer hits full force.  Sweltering in a house with broken air-conditioning had me longing for cool spoonfuls of something cool - frozen yogurt, ice cream or snowy shaved ice soaked with tart-sweet syrup.  Hansen’s is a go-to spot – nothing beats Miss Mary’s syrup or the pink lemonade, but Plum Street sno-balls and Sal’s out in Metairie vie for top honors when it comes to chocolate cream with condensed milk.  As new restaurants continue to open with shocking frequency, some come complete with shiny new spots for icy treats.  As snowball flavor preferences go, spearmint always surprises me as a top pick – tastes like toothpaste to me.  Dreamsicle, cherry and strawberry are also favorites, but last week I stood behind two bananas, a peach and a wedding cake.  It’s my turn, I’m trying someplace new and I’ll have…

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Lorin Gaudin

lorin_95Lorin Gaudin thinks, cooks, eats and writes about food, drink, culinary history, restaurants, dining and culture.  She holds a Bachelor's degree in Theatre from Loyola University of New Orleans, and a culinary diploma from L'Ecole de Gastronomie Ritz-Escoffier in Paris.  She is the host of her own weekend radio show, “All Over Food,” on The New 99.5FM – WRNO (www.thenew995fm.com), covering New Orleans’ amazing food, restaurants and dining scene and a contributing editor for Culinary Concierge Magazine’s New Orleans, Emerald Coast Florida and Dallas editions.  Lorin appears weekly as a food and dining reporter on "Steppin' Out," WYES-TV, Channel 12, sits on the on the Advisory Board of the Museum of the American Cocktail and is Board Secretary for The New Orleans Society for the Preservation of Cocktails and Cuisine which produces the annual event, Tales of the Cocktail.  She is a daily contributor to www.emerils.com, and her work can also be found in The New York Post.

Knife Skills in the Kitchen
"I'd like to learn how to de-bone a chicken."  Those were the words of NewOrleans.com's very own Kimbalimba, an avid cook and intrepid diner.  She's not alone, learning how to de-bone a bird is among the many kitchen cutting tasks that elude many home cooks. >>More


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