Just Being Neighborly – a few neighborhood joints that hit the spot.

April 10, 2008

The cliché that everything old is new again resonates loudly in New Orleans food and dining scene.  The K&B earrings, Schweggman t-shirts, and McKenzie’s logo decorated messenger bags are big sellers; big.  We all continue to mourn the few but mighty losses of beloved food icons, mom and pop shops, the scaled back hours of operation, the lack of New Orleans own “Cheers”-like charm, where stepping through the door of a neighborhood joint means a being greeted by shouts of “Hey darlin’, where y’at?!”  While those losses cut deep, take notice of a sweet renaissance, restaurants, grocers and vibes that are not always immediately obvious, glamorous or delicious in a high-falootin’ way, but they bear a powerful allure and purpose, a return of neighborhoods.  The places and feelings are there, just step across the threshold and be ready to respond with a loud, “Hey, where you at?”

That’s the vibe at J’Anita’s, a restaurant on lower Magazine Street that’s gotten quite a lot of hum and buzz.  J'Anita’s interior is quaint and clean, charming and pleasant, no frills yet nice.  Known mostly for the BBQ and guacamole, it’s the breakfasts and sandwich plates or platters with a choice of two sides that get the repeat business and for good reason.  One breakfast selection to order often is the deliciously decadent a heap of sausage gravy over biscuits.  Eggs are also good, and who can resist a side of Holy Toast – toast-bread imprinted with the image of the Blessed Mother.  Uncomfortable as it may be to bite into the face of the Virgin Mary, it’s a fun gimmick.  Speaking of gimmicks, animal crackers climb many a food, including the lunch plates’ mountainous side dishes.  It’s the norm here, but don’t do like one friend did and dip the sweet animal cracker into the savory guacamole – that’s not a taste sensation.  The fish sandwich dubbed on the menu and by diners as “The Best Fish Sammich,” is composed of two thick redfish filets, grilled lightly topped with caramelized red onions, feta, bacon and a healthy pour of Caesar salad dressing all piled onto airy, soft Ciabatta from La Boulangerie.  It’s salty, sweet, savory, chewy, wickedly messy and absolutely the best fish sandwich to hit the scene in a long, long time.  J’Anita’s guacamole, is fresh, bright green and soft-crunchy with diced onions laced throughout the fantastic citrus-tinged mash.  The chips that come with the guac are nasty, overly salty, thick commercial rounds.  The need to up the chip quality is a must.  Creamy-crunchy coleslaw was lovely accompanying the gently smoked pulled pork.  I know there’s a smoker on site, but oddly there is no smoke smell in evidence anywhere, at any time.  The house barbecue sauce is one of those things that are beloved or despised.  Decide for yourself if the combination of ketchup, Creole mustard, Crystal Hot Sauce and powdered seasonings works, but taste it before investing heavily in it as a condiment.  The burger is nice, the potato salad a chunky, light-on-the-mayo delight.  Dining at J’Anita’s is a great example of a simple neighborhood joint serving simple fare.  Just what the neighbors asked for. 

Rouse’s has won our big grocery-store hearts and shopping dollars, no doubt, but within the last month or so, two small grocers have emerged.  Essentials Market on Magazine Street is sweet and petite.  Owner Colleen O’Connor’s plan was to bring back that endangered species, small but efficient neighborhood grocer.  Old-fashioned in approach, the stores stock reflects an intriguing mix of organic, natural, conventional, Louisiana and specialty brands, as well as produce and dairy along with bread, beverages, paper goods, pet food and more.  It’s about the essentials, hence the name.  Ever evolving, Ms. O’Connor plans to expand what she carries to include locally-raised product from the growers and vendors of the Crescent City Farmers’ Market and there’s curbside service for busy folks who want to call their grocery orders in and have them brought out to the car curbside.    

On Oak Street, closer to the river than Carrollton Avenue, sits a cement box-of-a-place that was once home to an auto body shop and gas station.  Now it’s Oak Super Discount.  Don’t let the name fool you entirely.  Yes, the place is a wee bit cheesy and most of the customers buy nothing but tall beers tucked into brown paper bag wrappers or “cold drinks” and packs of Little Debbies, but there is more to this place than at first meets the eyes.  The place is neat and clean, well-stocked and has a substantial meat counter from which you can buy Patton’s Hot Sausage by the pound or 10-pound tub ($13.99), all cuts of pork, chicken, beef and turkey, crazy-inexpensive meat combination specials, even a “Meat & Grocery Special – 5 pounds each of ribs, ground meat, pork chops, ham seasoning, pickle tips, chicken wings, leg quarters, gizzards, necks, drumsticks, turkey wings, necks, neck bones;  4 pounds each of  rice, and sugar; 2 pounds of red beans, 4 cans of cream corn, cut green beans and tomato sauce; a 48-ounce bottle of vegetable oil, 4 boxes of mac & cheese, 3 boxes of Jiffy Corn Muffin Mix, a 24-ounce bottle of ketchup and an 18-ounce bottle of BBQ sauce, all for $109.99, AND you get a free case of Big Shot.  Whew!  This place also serves food; breakfast until 10:30 then lunch specials like a decent spaghetti and meatballs or soul-satisfying smothered pork chops.  Fine sandwiches on French bread, dressed free, in 32”, 16” and 8” sizes, fried chicken, chicken wings, and seafood platters are also offered.  This place does it all.